Occasionally I’ll have a post dedicated to an up-and-coming fashion designer/brand I think will be especially prevalent. This time will be a brand that is surprisingly new on the scene, Rosie Assoulin.
The 28 year-old designer launched her eponymous line for Resort 2013, and made her NYFW debut this year. Heralded over and over as being both well-connected with the l’jeunes of new style and possessing skills far beyond her years, Assoulin has garnered both attention and respect. In a way, this skillful combination of high and low is what sets the designer apart. She focuses on draping and materials in a way that mixes easy day/evening dressing with couture skills, and produces clothing that can be worn on women of all ages. While many designers struggle to find their “look” without boxing themselves into a creative stalemate, it is Assoulin’s non-restrictive vision of elegance that allows her to become more than just one silhouette. Her dedication to craft will be exciting to watch as the collections progress.
Raquel Zimmerman in Alexander McQueen, for Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2013 ad campaign. Photograph by David Sims.
Oh, the texture! Honey conveys a sense of luxury and sensuality, so how perfect that Raquel could be doused in it for such an appropriately-themed collection? The bee necklace is front and center, and she seems to be a victim; the insects have swarmed around her neck and covered her in their sticky material. This picture has a subtle darkness that is true to the McQueen brand and highlights the look of the collection.
Joan Smalls in Chanel, styled by Belen Antolin for Vogue Spain (‘Midnight in Paris’), December 2013. Photograph by Karl Lagerfeld.
This photograph stands out mostly for the purely physical aspects. Joan’s body is perfectly positioned, from her mile-long legs to the one bent arm. The wheel constrains her movement, which is dictated by her stony-faced companion. Together it makes for a picture that seems frozen in time with the bodies full of tension.
Paris Spring 2014 Couture collections had a completely different tone than the previous year— like the S/S ‘14 clothing, couture was toned down with an emphasis on comfort. Raf Simons showed all other designers exactly how to create simpler pieces without sacrificing any of the craftmanship that makes couture great. The Christian Dior collection, although more colorful than seen in my favorite 5 above, kept interest mostly through the cutwork and lightness of the clothing. An accomplishment that shows Simons’s skill in keeping the Dior brand fresh.
And those Puritan-goes-to-the-disco shoes! Photographs by Yannis Vlamos.
After a month and a half away due to computer troubles, I’m back on Tumblr! Meraki will be doing some catch-up in the next couple of weeks (Paris Couture week, NYFW, etc), so stay tuned.
Vintage Chanel No 5 ad campaign.
This advert sells the idea of a Chanel woman so well, mostly through its simplicity (and the brilliant tagline). The photograph presents a feeling rather than trying to conjure up an approximation of the perfume’s scent, which is a strategy that usually ends up being a crude misadventure in manufactured smell.
Nicole Kidman in Armani Prive for Harper’s Bazaar Australia, December 2013. Photograph by James White.
This recreation from Kate Moss’s 1992 Harper’s Bazaar cover has a more fairy-like twist on it and is updated for 2013. White has largely replaced red as a standout color for red carpets and winter style, and Kidman’s frothy dresses are dreamy and seasonally appropriate. The stylist has inserted enough differences to allow this cover to stand on its own, while still allowing for nostalgic tribute to Ms. Moss.
Marion Cotillard in Dior Resort 2014 for Dior Magazine. Photograph by Tim Walker.
This picture is so simplistic that it truly lends itself to the Dior aesthetic. The back of the dress is shown off in a natural way (none of the awkward turn poses that are prevalent in ads and red carpets now), and the white and black show off the two-toned vibrancy of the bag. Cotillard’s no-frills styling as she studies art gives the viewer an image of the comfortable but intelligent Dior woman, while the background draws a parallel between the bag itself and artwork.
Nicolas Ghesquière and Charlotte Gainsbourg in Balenciaga S/S 2012 for Harper’s Bazaar, May 2012. Photograph by Jean-Paul Goude.
This shoot is so lighthearted and fun, a play on the ‘Darth Vader’ visor hats Ghesquière designed for Balenciaga. The movement in the dress adds to the energy in the “fight” between the model and designer, muse and creator. Although they have destroyed the set, they bring the picture alive.
Louis Vuitton announced today that Nicolas Ghesquière will become the new creative director of the brand. This is after Marc Jacobs showed his last pieces for the brand in the S/S 2014 collection. Ghesquière previously designed for Balenciaga.
Jennifer Lawrence in Prabal Gurung F/W 2012, styled by Jacob K for W Magazine (‘Generation W’), October 2012. Photograph by Tim Walker.
This picture is not full of emotion, or color, or movement. Walker has merely created a wonderful photo that is able to stand on its own artistically with silence and solemnity. This shoot incorporates the different muses designers call upon when creating a feathered piece— the stars they hope will wear it (Lawrence), the glamorous wealth they wish to evoke (the centerpeice behind her), the effortless style they hope it conveys (the sparse setting), and of course the animal they take from physically and emotionally (the peacock). It captures the fantasy of feathers for the reader, even if he/she doesn’t know exactly how.
Daphne Guinness in Alexander McQueen, styled by Jessica Diehl for Vanity Fair (‘A Blast of the Best’), September 2013. Photograph by Mario Testino.
Mario Testino’s photos often look as if they were taken from a party of close friends, so it’s no wonder he was chosen for this Best Dressed spread. The ever unflappable and flawlessly styled heiress Daphne Guinness is in the spotlight, but it’s obvious that the party is in full swing around her (tattooed fire-breather, anyone?). Testino has smartly made Guinness stand alone to let her be the style superstar, while still allowing his personal style to come through in the picture.
After the decidedly mournful and reflective Louis Vuitton S/S 2014 presentation at Paris Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs has confirmed that this was his last collection designing for the brand. He has been the creative director at Louis Vuitton for 16 years, and dramatically revitalized the brand. LV has not announced any plans for a new head of the brand.
Model in Philip Treacy hat and Ralph Lauren, styled by Marcus Teo for W Magazine, July 2008. Photograph by David Slijper.
W Magazine is always very good about choosing spreads that utilize space and color well, and this is a textbook example of that. While the styling is a little unoriginal (entire outfit is Ralph Lauren, hat custom made for RL), Slijper has set up the shot wonderfully. The feather reaching into the empty space and the model’s pose puts the emphasis on the hat. The photo does its job of selling an accessory yet it also manages to look beautiful in the process.
On the more casual side of New York Fashion Week presentations was Robert Rodriquez, and the designer did not disappoint. An almost entirely black and white collection of varied styles was shown, all pieces streamlined and gorgeous. Most appealing was the marbled pattern that appeared on several, and the wearability of the entire collection. Robert Rodriquez took the light comfort that is the pervading trend recently, and proved that not all collections are created alike.